Chef Darryl Bell
Catch up with the chef behind Stateline Road Smokehouse
A Kansas City native, Chef Darryl Bell moved to Napa Valley to work for Thomas Keller at Bouchon Bistro, where he rose through the kitchen ranks over a seven-year stint. On the side, he developed a barbecue sauce line, 816 BBQ Sauce, as a way to raise funds for a foundation in Africa. During the pandemic, Bell’s friends and family wanted to buy the sauce, so he started an online business.
Darryl Bell is a part of the New School of Napa Valley chefs, and owner of the new hotspot reflecting the evolution of the region’s dining cuisine. Darryl’s pioneering spirit shines throughout Stateline Road Smokehouse and he has made his mark in the exciting culinary incubator that is Napa Valley.
Simultaneously, as the world responded and people returned to restaurants, he noticed an increased demand for casual dining – and his own cravings for Kansas-City barbecue were at an all-time high. “My wife said, stop crying about it and create your own restaurant,” he said with a laugh. So Bell made the decision to evolve the sauce into a restaurant, switching gears from fine dining back to his roots with Stateline Road Smokehouse.
Along with his business partner, Jeremy Threat, Bell found a space that spoke to him in the Rail Arts District in downtown Napa. A former auto body shop in a Quonset hut, the building resembled an airplane hangar and had the space he needed for serious smoking–including his 20-foot-long, custom-built smokers. “It’s my cathedral to smoking,” he described it. “There are four different types of fire and heat, smokers that are ultimately cooking all the food on the menu.
The Stateline Road menu offers Kansas City classics such as brisket burnt ends and baby back ribs, as well as chef-crafted sides and vegetarian options like the Smoked Maitake Mushroom and Greens Salad.
“There is nothing in Napa that is equivalent to this,” he explained. Notably, Darryl Bell has done more than bring delicious Kansas-city barbecue to Napa – he’s changing its culinary landscape. Bell’s eatery is a pioneering Black-owned restaurant in the city of Napa. And while it’s KC-inspired, the menu represents Bell’s multitude of culinary influences (Alinea, Chicago; Bouchon and Etoile, Yountville; Michel Troisgros,Tokyo; PRESS, St. Helena) to boot.
“I lived in both worlds. I can’t be restricted and tied down to just one criteria,” he said of the cuisine. “It’s a mix of both because that’s who I am.”
The one tradition he won’t mess with is burnt ends. “It’s a dish that was created in Kansas City, so I try to show it in its truest form, the way I ate it when I was small,” he explained. The menu also includes hearty grain bowls, healthy green salads, and vegetable sides–and there’s a secret fish menu that those in the know (that’s you!) can request. Those familiar with Stateline from past pop-ups will be pleased to see the popular smoked maitake and greens dish with marinated garbanzo beans and crisp purple rice among the offerings. “We’re working with Rancho Gordo beans, who are based just two blocks up the street,” he said.
For Bell, this project is showcasing everything he loves beyond food–and removing some barriers. “It’s what I’m wanting Napa to look like and feel like,” he said. A large Muhammad Ali mural on the back of the building is a tribute to the cityscape and icons of his youth. He knows Napa Valley diners are ready for a place like Stateline.
“They’re ready for barbecue. They’re ready for a young, hip place with a fun patio, cocktails and playlist.”